Hoian Sights

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Sights:

Landmark

• JAPANESE COVERED BRIDGE

This famed bridge (Cau Nhat Ban) connects Tran Phu Str., with Nguyen Thi Minh Khai Str.,. The first bridge on this site was constructed in the 1590s. It was built by the Japanese com-munity of Hoi An in order to link them with the Chinese quarters across the stream. The Japanese Covered Bridge is very solidly constructed; the original builders were concerned about the threat of earthquakes. Over the centuries the ornamentation has remained relatively faithful to the original Japanese design. Its understatement contrasts greatly with the Vietnamese and Chinese penchant for wild decoration. The French flattened out the road way to make it suitable for their motor vehicles, but the original arched shape was restored during major renovation work in 1986. Built into the northern side of the bridge is a small temple (Chua Cau). The writing over its door is the name given to the bridge in 1719 to replace the name meaning Japanese Covered Bridge. However the new name, Lai Vien Kieu (Bridge for Passers-by from Afar), never quite caught on. According to legend, there once lived an enormous monster called Cu, who had its head in India, its tail in Japan and its body in Vietnam. Whenever the monster moved, terrible disasters such as floods and earthquakes befell Vietnam. This bridge was built on the monster's weakest point and killed it, but the people of Hoi An took pity on the slain monster and built this temple to pray for its soul. The entrances of the bridge are guarded by a pair of monkeys on one side and a pair of dogs on the other. According to one story, these animals were popularly revered because many of Japan s emperors were born in years of the dog and monkey. Another tale says that construction of the bridge started in the year of the monkey and was finished in the year of the dog. The stele, listing all the Vietnamese and Chinese contributors to a subsequent restoration of the bridge, are written in “chu nho” (Chinese characters) - the nom script had not yet become popular in these parts.

• MUSEUMS

Showcasing a collection of blue and white ceramics of the Dai Viet period, the Museum of Trading Ceramics (80 Tran Phu Str.,) occupies a simply restored house made of dark wood. In particular. Check-out the great ceramic mosaic that's set above tile pond in the inner courtyard. Housed in the Quan Am Pagoda the Hoi An Museum of History & Culture (7 Nguyen Hue Str., Time 8am-5pm) has a small collection of bronze temple bells, gongs and Cham artifacts. Artifacts from the early Dong Son civilisation of Sa Huynh are displayed downstairs at the Museum of Sa Huynh Culture & Museum of the Revolution (149 Tran Phu Str.,; Time 8am-5pm). Upstairs, the Revolution museum has the usual collection of local photos and mementos of the last two wars, including a boat used to transport cadres. It would be more accessible if full English captions were provided,

• ASSEMBLY HALLS

Assembly Hall of the Fujian Chinese

Founded as a place to hold community meetings, this assembly hall (Phuc Kien; opposite 35 Tran Phu Str.,) was later trans-formed into a temple for the worship of Thien Hau, a deity from Fujian province. The triple gate to the complex was built in 1975. The mural on the right-hand wall near the entrance to the main hall depicts Thien Hau, her way lit by lantern light as she crosses a stormy sea to rescue a foundering ship. On the wall opposite is a mural of the heads of the six Fujian families who fled from China to Hoi An in the 17th century, following the overthrow of the Ming dynasty. The penultimate chamber contains a statue of Thien Hau. To either side of the entrance stand red-skinned Thuan Phong Nhi and green-skinned Thien Iy Nhan. When cither sees or hears sailors in distress, they inform Thien Hau, who sets off to effect a rescue The replica of a Chinese boat along the right hand wall is 1:20 scale. The central altar in the last chamber contains seated figures of the heads of the six Fujian families. The smaller figures below them represent their successors as clan leaders. Behind the altar on the left is the God of Prosperity. On the right are three fairies and smaller figures representing the 12 “ba mu” (midwives), each of whom teaches newborns a different skill necessary for the first year of life: smiling, sucking, lying on their stomachs and so forth. Childless couples often come here to pray for offspring. The three groups of figures in this chamber represent the elements most central to Chinese life; ancestors, children and financial wellbeing. The middle altar of the room to the right of the courtyard commemorates deceased leaders of the Fujian congregation. On either side are lists of contributors - women on the left and men on the right. The wall panels represent the four seasons. The Fujian assembly hai1 is fairly well lit and can be visited after dark. Shoes should be removed upon mounting the platform just past the naves. Assembly Hall of the Cantonese Chinese Congregation Founded in 1786, this assembly hall (176 Tran Phu Str., Time 8am-5pm) has a main altar that is dedicated to Quan Cong, Note the long-handled brass fans to either side of the altar. The lintel and door posts of the main entrance and a number of the columns supporting the roof are made of single blocks of granite. The other columns were carved out of the durable wood of the jackfruit tree. There are intricate carvings on the wooden beams that support the roof in front of the main entrance.

Assembly Hall of the Chaozhou Chinese Congregation

The Chaozhou Chinese in Hoi An built their congregational hall (Trieu Chau; opposite 157 Nguyen Duy Hieu Str., Time 8am 5pm) in 1776. Some outstanding woodcarvings are on the beams, walls and altar. On the doors in front of the altar are carvings of two Chinese girls wearing their hair in a Japanese style.

Chinese All-Community Assembly Hall

Founded in 1773, the Chinese All-Community Assembly Hall (Chua Ba; Tell: 3861 935; 64 Tran Phu Str.,) was used by Fujian, Cantonese, Hainan. Chaozhou and Hakka congregations in Hoi An, the pavilions off the main courtyard in corporate elements of 19th-century French architecture. Assembly Hall of the Hainan Chinese Congregation

Built in 1851, this assembly hall (10 Tran Phu Str., Time 8am-5pm) is a memorial to 108 merchants from Hainan Island who were mistaken for pirates and killed in Quang Nan) province during the reign of Emperor Tu Duc. The elaborate dais contains plaques to the r memory. In front of the central altar is a fine gilded woodcarving of Chinese court life.

• OLD HOUSES:

Tan Ky House

Built two centuries ago as the home of a well to do ethnic Vietnamese merchant. Tan Ky House (Tell: 3861 474; 101 Nguyen Thai Hoc Str.,; Time 8am-noon & 2-4.30pm) has been lovingly preserved and today looks almost exactly as it did in the early 19th century. The design of Tan Ky House shows some evidence of the Japanese and Chinese influence on local architecture. Japanese elements include the ceiling (in the area immediately before the courtyard), which is supported by three progressively shorter beams, one on top of the other. There are similar beams in the salon. Under the crab-shell ceiling there are carvings of crossed sabres wrapped in silk ribbon. The sabres symbolise force, the silk represents flexibility. Chinese poems written in inlaid mother of pearl are hung from a number of the column that hold up the roof. The Chinese characters on these 150 year old panels are formed entirely of birds gracefully portrayed in various positions of flight. The courtyard here has several functions to let in light, provide ventilation, bring a glimpse of nature into the home, and collect rainwater and provide drainage. The stone tiles covering the patio floor were brought from Thanh Hoa province in north-central Vietnam. The carved wooden balcony supports around the courtyard are decorated with grape leaves, which are a European import and further evidence of the unique blending of cultures that took place in Hoi An The back of the house faces the river. In the past, this section of the building was rented out to foreign merchants. That the house was a place of commerce as well as a residence is indicated by the two pulleys attached to a beam in the storage loft just inside the front door. The exterior of the roof is made of tiles; inside, the ceiling consists of wood. This design keeps the house cool in summer and warm in winter. The floor tiles were brought from near Hanoi. Tan Ky House is a private home; the owner, whose family has lived here for seven generations, speaks fluent French and English.

Tran Family Chapel

The Tran family moved from China to Vietnam in around 1700. Built in 1802, the Tran Family Chapel (21 Le Loi Str.,) is a house for worshipping ancestors. It was built by one of the Tran clan who ascended to the rank of mandarin and once served as an Ambassador to China. His picture is to the right of the chapel. The architecture of the building reflects the influence of Chinese and Japanese styles the central door is reserved tor the dead -- it's opened at Tet and on the anniversary of the main ancestor. Traditionally, women entered from the left and men from the right, although these distinctions are no longer oh served in supposedly egalitarian communist Vietnam. The wooden boxes on the altar contain the Tran ancestors' stone tablets - featuring chiseled Chinese characters setting out the dates of birth and death - along with some small personal effects. On the anniversary of each family member's death, their box is opened, incense is burned and food is of fered. Nowadays photographs have replaced the stone tablets. There's a museum and souvenir shop at the hack of the chapel. The small garden behind is where the placentas of newborn family members are buried - the practice is meant to prevent fighting between the children.

Quan Thang House

This private house (77 Tran Phu Str.,; Time 7am-5pm) is three centuries old and has been in the family for six generations having been built by an ancestor who was a Chinese captain. Again, the architecture includes Japanese and Chinese elements. There is some especially fine carving on the teak walls of the rooms around the courtyard, on the roof beams and under the crab-shell roof (in the salon next to the courtyard). Look out for the green ceramic tiles built into the railing around the courtyard balcony.

Phung Hung Old House

In a lane full of beautiful buildings, this old house (4 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai Str.,; Time 8am-7pm) stands out. It's still a family home, having housed eight generations over 226 years. At present it showcases hand embroidery and souvenirs; wander through and enjoy the ambience.

Tran Duong House

There's a whole citv block ot colonnaded French-colonial buildings on Phan Boi Chau Str., between No. 22 and 73, among them the 19th-century Tran Duong House (25 Phan Boi Chau Str., donations welcome: Time 9am-6pm) Mr. Duong, a charming retired mathematics; teacher, speaks English and French, and is happy to explain the history of his 62m-long, house that has been in his family for six gen orations. The large wooden table in the front room is the family bed.

Diep Dong Nguyen House

Built for a wealthy Chinese merchant in the late 19th century is Diep Dong Nguyen House (58 Nguyen Thai Hoc Str., Time 8am-noon & 2-4.30pm). The front room on the ground floor was once a dispensary for “thuoc bac” (Chinese medicine), the medicines were stored in the glass-enclosed cases lining the walls The owner's private collection of antiques -which includes photographs, porcelain and furniture - is on display upstairs. Two of the chairs were once lent by the family to Emperor Bao Dai.

Old House at 103 Ð Tran Phu

The wooden frontage and shutters make a good photographic backdrop to this backdrop to this eclectic shop (103 Tran Phu Str.,), where women make silk lanterns

TEMPLES & PAGODAS:

• Quan Cong Temple

Founded in 1653, Quan Cong Temple (Chua Ong; 24 Tran Phu Str.,) is dedicated to Quan Cong - a highly esteemed Chinese general who is worshipped as a symbol of loyalty, sincerity, integrity and justice His partially gilt statue, made of papier-mâché on a wooden frame, is in the central altar at the back of the sanctuary. On the left is a statue of General Chau Xuong, one of Quan Cong's guardians, striking a tough-guy pose, on the right is the rather camp and plump administrative mandarin Quan Binh. The life-size white horse recalls a mount ridden by Quan Cong, until he was given a red horse of extraordinary endurance, representations of which are common in Chinese pagodas. Check out the carp-shaped rain spouts or, the roof surrounding the courtyard. The carp is a symbol of patience in Chinese mythology and is popular in Hoi An. Shoes should be removed when mounting the platform in front of the statue of Quan Cong.

• Chuc Thanh Pagoda

Founded in 1454 by Minh Hai, a Buddhist monk from China, Chuc Thanh Pagoda (Area 7, Tan An; Time 8am-6pm) is the oldest pagoda in Hoi An. Among the antique ritual objects still in use are several bells, a stone gong that is two centuries old and a carp-shaped wooden gong said to be even older. In the main sanctuary the gilt Chinese characters inscribed on a red roof beam give details of the pagoda's construction An A Di Da Buddha flanked by two Thich Ca Buddhas sits under a wooden canopy on the central dais. In front of them is a statue of a boyhood Thich Ca flanked by his servants. To get to Chuc Thanh Pagoda, go north ail the way to the end of Ð Nguyen Truong To and turn left. Follow the sandy path for 500m.

• Phuoc Lam Pagoda

Phuoc Lam Pagoda (Hamlet 2A, Cam Ha; Time 8am-5pm) was founded in the mid-17th century. The head monk at the end of that century was An Thiem, a Vietnamese prodigy who became a monk at the age of eight. When he was 18, the king drafted An Thiem's brothers into his army to put down a rebellion. An Thiem volunteered to take the places of the other men in his family and eventually rose to the rank of general. After the war he returned to monkhood, but felt guilty about the many people he had slain. To atone for his sins, he volunteered to clean the Hoi An Market for 20 years. When that time was up, he was asked to come to Phuoc Lam Pagoda as head monk. To reach the pagoda, continue past Chuc Thanh Pagoda for 400m. The path passes an obelisk that was erected over the tomb of 13 ethnic Chinese, who had been decapitated by the Japanese during WWII for resistance activities.

• Other Temples & Pagodas

Serving the local community, the Cao Dai pagoda (88 Hung Vuong Str.,) near the bus station, is surrounded by peaceful gardens. The Phac Hat Pagoda (673 Hai Ba Trung Str.,) has a colourful facade of ceramics and murals and is an active place of worship. The less ornate and newish Cam Pho Temple (52 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai Str., Time 8am-5pm) is notable mainly for its ceramic dragon roof line.

Activities

For eco-tours and swimming at Cua Dai Beach to the eas,

• COOKING COURSES

For many visitors to Vietnam the food is a highlight and eating it a serious activity in it. Hoi An is Foodie Heaven, and budding gourmets who want to take a step further into Vietnamese cuisine will find ample opportunity here. Many of the popular eateries offer cooking classes, and the best bit is that you then get to sit down and enjoy the fruits of your labour. One of the best classes is offered by Hai Scout Cafe at its Red Bridge Cooking School (Starting out with a trip to the market, you then cruise down the river to this relaxing retreat about 4km from Hoi An The lesson includes a tour of the herb garden, making rice paper, several local specialties and some decorative nourishes - although it's hard to imagine how your dinner party guests hack home will react to tomatoes morphed into roses and lotus flowers. The class starts at 8.45am and finishes at 1 pm. You're given print-outs of the recipes to try at home. More informal classes can be found at Restaurant Cafe 96, Green Moss (choose off the menu) and Cafe des Amis.

• DIVING

Rainbow Divers have an office in the Old Town, where you can book dives at Cu lao Cham Marine Park.

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